Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
